During World War II, Britain had a shortage of fabric for
ordinary, civilian clothes. Factories abroad had to cut down on
producing fabric as they concentrated on the war and its needs. The
fabric that was brought over in boats often did not make it safely
to Britain. Cargo ships were easy targets for enemy attacks and
were frequently torpedoed by submarines. So Britain had to rely on
its own production of cloth. Scarce cloth was earmarked for making
service uniforms, camouflage gear, parachutes and other military
items.
The government thought that the best solution to the material
shortage was to ration clothes, and to make the design of the
clothes as trim and economic as possible. The Utility Clothes were
simple, practical and did not waste precious fabric. Women's skirts
were short and narrow. Blouses were tight and short sleeveless
jumpers were common. Jackets were short too, with a maximum of
three buttons and a single-breasted collar. Clothes were not
supposed to have decorations like embroidery, a row of buttons or
an extra pocket. Only buttons, pockets, pleats and stitching that
were necessary were allowed.
Women's fashions fell in with the rules about Utility Clothes.
Styles that were popular before the war became unfashionable. Wide
skirts, double-breasted jackets, large cuffs, velvet and fur
trimming, and trousers with turn-ups were seen as wasteful and
unpatriotic. The new fashion was for an austere silhouette with no
adornments. Lines were simple and straight. Military style suits
were popular with women throughout the war. They wore boxy jackets,
with padded shoulders and narrow waists, and straight skirts that
rose to the knee.
This dress was suitable for smart day or evening wear. It may have
been kept for special occasions. During the war many women worked
in factories, in the services or in voluntary organisations, where
they did hard physical jobs like making gas masks or patrolling the
streets as ARP wardens. Women's work clothes were often
either uniforms or overalls, which were hard wearing and long
lasting. It is unlikely that this dress would have been worn to
work. Instead, the owner would have donned it for dinner, dancing
or even to get married.
During the war fashions favoured practical clothes that allowed
women to move around freely. The wedge shoe, turban, siren
suit and kangaroo cloak were some of the most fashionable and
practical clothes of the time. The wedge shoe with a cork sole was
clumpy but comfortable and women could walk long distances in them.
The turban stopped hair from getting in the way of factory work and
housework and let women hide their 'bad hair days.' The siren suit
was the original jump suit, an all-in-one outfit with a zip up the
front. It was convenient for work and warm in draughty situations
since it had no gaps. When the air raid siren went off in the
middle of the night, it was quick and easy to put on. That is how
it got the name 'siren suit' and people often wore this one-piece
in the air raid shelter. The kangaroo cloak was another
practical favourite because it had roomy pockets to carry essential
items. In dashing out to the air raid shelter, the wearer could
carry a torch, their identity card and gas mask in the pockets.